Misadventures, Qatar Edition

All photos courtesy Amanda Duckworth
The customs agent stared at me. I stared back. I was surprised to notice he appeared to be as nervous as I was. He looked younger than me but had many advantages over me. Namely, I had just disembarked from a 13-hour flight and hadn’t had a chance to brush my teeth. Oh, and he had confiscated my passport.
Awkward silence ensued. I’ve traveled quite a bit in my time, and I have never had my passport taken from me. I was trying not to panic. It figures the first time I would experience this would be when I was 7,000 miles from home and in the Middle East. That said, somehow, his nerves calmed mine.
Before boarding that flight to Doha, Qatar, I had a five-hour layover in Chicago. I was traveling with my friend Jen Roytz, who is also based in Lexington and had also been invited to the eight-day HH The Emir 24th International Equestrian Sword Festival. 
We had time to kill and duty free shops to explore, which is how I ended up with a bottle of rum in my bag. In my defense, we asked if the rum would be allowed in Qatar and were assured that since it was purchased at duty free, we would be fine.
Because Qatar is a Muslim country, technically alcohol is illegal, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t sold there under certain circumstances. In fact, it is sold in the duty free shops in the very airport where I was now being detained. Qatar is a complicated place. But more on that in a minute.
The agent explained that I could not have the rum in the country, but that they were happy to give it back to me when I left. He filled out a form, had me sign it and then handed back my passport. Feeling very much like I had just been called to the principal’s office, Jen and I set out to find our ride to the hotel.
The confiscated rum became a funny story, and we dived into a week of adventures in Qatar. At the same time, that silly bottle of alcohol kept flashing in my mind as we went from place to place. Not because I have a drinking problem, but because it seemed to symbolize the sometimes confusing growth spurt that the country is currently undergoing.
A ROOM WITH A VIEW

It is no secret that Doha wants to become an “it” place when it comes to both business and tourism. The country is pouring untold billions into building and rebuilding everything. The oldest structure in the main part of the city is less than 35 years old, and it is a hotel. The airport we landed in this year was not the same one I traveled through the year prior. The unofficial official slogan of the whole area is “Before 2022” as a result of the controversial but successful bid Qatar put in for the FIFA World Cup.
Those behind the equestrian festival invited more than 400 guests to Qatar last week, and it drew many names you might know. Todd Pletcher was just a few seats down from me at the races. I ran into Sir Michael Stoute in the parade ring. Criquette Head-Maarek was honored at the gala dinner.
Of course, Pletcher trains Kentucky Derby hopeful Khozan, who is a half-brother to champion Royal Delta and is owned by Qatar-based Al Shaqab. The powerful racing outfit also owns dual Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe heroine Treve, who is trained by Head-Maarek.  Meanwhile, the Arc itself is sponsored by Qatar, and it was recently announced the country had struck a 10-year sponsorship deal with Goodwood in England. There is little doubt about the global nature of the area’s investment in Thoroughbred racing.
Throughout the week, organizers made it their goal to show off the best of the equestrian world in Qatar as well as the best Doha has to offer as a city. In fact, many of the most memorable experiences took place away from the track.
In the words of our tour guide, most of the people working in Qatar are not Qatari. He himself is from Sri Lanka and had come to Qatar to work for a few years to save up money before heading home. At one point we stood next to the Persian Gulf on an entirely man-made luxury island called The Pearl and discussed Buddhism. It was surreal.
Earlier that morning we toured the Souq Waqif, which literally translates to the standing market. Tucked away behind the maze of shops was the Falcon Souq, where those looking for a falcon can come to shop. Falcons are both revered and big business. Seriously big.
ON PATROL AT THE SOUQ

FALCONS ON DISPLAY

We were allowed to check out the Toyota level of falcons, meaning they “only” cost around $30,000. The Maserati-esque falcons were not on display for tourists, but can easily cost in the six and seven figures.  Upon learning that, we should not have been surprised at our next destination, but I admit I was. Never in my life has it crossed my mind that there would be hospitals for falcons.
As we walked into the waiting room of the falcon equivalent of Rood and Riddle, it was hard not to be impressed. Don’t worry. Most of the falcons were in there simply because their GPS chips were on the fritz.
Sitting outside was a man and his falcon. The man was on his iPhone, the falcon was resting peacefully on his arm. It screamed photo op but only with permission. One doesn’t want to be rude.  The gentleman gracefully agreed to a few pics, and his falcon preened for the camera.
A MAN AND HIS FALCON

In many ways, it was a perfect snapshot of Doha as whole. So much old; so much new.
Not far away from the souq is the Museum of Islamic Art, which is stunning. That did not come as a surprise, considering it was designed by architect I. M. Pei, the man behind the Louvre’s glass-and-steel pyramid in Paris.
PROTECTION FOR MAN AND HORSE AT THE MUSEUM

Jaw-dropping architecture does not stop at tourist destinations. We were lucky enough to get tours two of the major equestrian operations near Doha, Al Shahania Stud and Al Shaqab. Both are remarkable when it comes to design, functionality and landscape. I would hate to see the water bill for either.
AL SHAQAB

Much like falcons, horses are revered animals in Qatar. Understandably, Arabians are the king of the castle when it comes to breed preference, but both operations have gotten into Thoroughbreds as well. We had breakfast at Al Shahania, while some of its inhabitants looked on in both confusion and interest. Our moonlit tour of Al Shaqab also featured equine accommodations that were the equivalent of a five-star hotel.
BREAKFAST AT AL SHAHANIA

AN AL SHAHANIA RUNNER SHOWS OFF

ARABIAN MARE AND FOAL AT AL SHAQAB

Going racing in Qatar is an interesting thing. The Qatar Racing and Equestrian Club is just that. It is home to the racecourse, Al Rayyan, but on the grounds you can also find arenas for world class show horses as well as smaller venues for lesson horses. All of it takes place, often simultaneously, in the same facility.
Due to the social customs of the area, there is no drinking allowed and no betting. A group of us foreigners discussed that it would be nice if there were published odds for the racing, just so you would know which horses were in with a chance and which horses were longshots.
READY FOR RACING AT AL RAYYAN

QUITE THE BACKDROP

THE RACE IS ON

A SON OF BERNARDINI

That said, one of the most satisfying moments of the week came during the stretch run of both Group 1 races. The crowd was cheering loud and proud for their favorite runners. There was something pure about their reaction, since it clearly wasn’t booze or gambling induced.
The two big races of the week were the Group 1 H. H. Emir’s Sword for Arabians and the Group 1 H. H. Emir’s Trophy for Thoroughbreds. Horses owned by Al Shaqab won both. The Emir’s Trophy went to Dubday, who was piloted to victory by Frankie Dettori. The pair teamed up to win the race last year as well.
DUBDAY BEFORE HIS VICTORY

THE FINAL TURN

Leaving the races that night, we were stopped by a guard. Members of Qatar’s royal family were headed out of their private box, and we were held up for security reasons.  As he held up his hand to stop our forward progress, the guard said gently, “I am sorry but you have to wait. No offense is meant.”
His words caught me off guard because it never crossed my mind to be offended. Perhaps he was just very polite, or perhaps he too has noticed the weird pull between old and new in Qatar.
Oh, and that bottle of rum? Nothing says classy like collecting it from customs at six in the morning on your way home.