Acadiana Road Trip to Evangeline Downs

Horses break from the gate at Evangeline Downs. (Photos courtesy of Geoff Worden)
Driving more than five hours round-trip to see nine races, mostly maidens and $4,000/$5,000 claimers, is insane. Even I would admit that. However, no one drives into the heart of Acadiana in Lousiana without eating and that would ultimately make the journey to Evangeline Downs and back worth the effort.
This is the second in a series exploring smaller tracks while the rest of the world talks Triple Crown. My soundtrack to set the tone of my drive into Cajun country was Boozoo Chavisʼs Zydeco Trail Ride. Though he is no longer with us, in my mind, he is still the king. Parish Brewing in Broussard was my first stop and I made it a few minutes before the 1 p.m. tour departed. Located in an industrial park, the only sign of life was the overflowing parking lot (about eight cars).
PARISH BREWING BEER LIST

Already familiar with their Canebrake (wheat) and Envie (pale ale), I was excited to see what else they offered. They have a pretty good thing going - every seat was taken, the tour had almost twenty people and tasters were buying cases to go. The reserves aging in Four Roses bourbon barrels will be released (brewery only) next month and they had sours aging in Pinot Noir barrels which will not be released. The first experiment with sours will be dumped but theyʼre trying some more. The Canebrake strawberry and blueberry brews have been successful and they are planning a party on July 18 with the strawberry. Feel free to bring your dog, or plan to adopt one (not after drinking, please). A pineapple-jalapeño beer recipe is being refined.
Parish Brewing does not pasteurize and uses no preservatives, keeping the beer fresh and flavorful. After the tour, I opted for two 5 oz. tastes (a few dollars each). The Farmhouse IPA, a rye saison, is exactly what I love about farmhouse beer - a little wild and persistent on the palate with enough tartness to make your mouth water. Ghost in the Machine, a double IPA, listed as “too hoppy for you,” was darker ... and very hoppy. Not for the faint of heart, it was a bit overwhelming. I call these intense styles Frankenstein beers, theyʼre not normal and one is enough.
BILLEAUD'S CRACKLIN

The skies looked very threatening when I left. I needed food. In this area of Louisiana, some of the best food comes from gas station convenience stores. I dismissed this concept when I first moved here but have become a believer since. Just up the road from Parish Brewing is Billeaudʼs complete with a meat counter and hot food to go. I got some cracklins and a link of boudin (Cajun fast food - mixture of pork and rice and spices in a sausage casing). I enjoyed them in the car while the rain poured down. The cracklins were spicy and slightly puffed ... and delicious. The boudin was tasty and offered plenty of spicy heat, a little more than I prefer. Where was this when I had a beer in front of me? For less than $5 I had a good snack and some crunchy road food for the drive home.
PREJEAN'S

It was time for something more substantial though. Off to Prejeanʼs! This place is an institution, I found out about them from the gumbo they serve at Jazz Fest. Donʼt let the fun-house swamp decor (yes, there is a statue of a child riding an alligator) dissuade you from sitting down and eating. The kitsch is pretty fantastic after you realize the food is great.
I opted for the peaceful (in the middle of the afternoon) lounge over the boisterous main restaurant. Five of the 6 taps were local, including Canebrake, but I was on a long road trip so I opted for a Barqʼs. The gumbo is as thick, satisfying and dark as it is at Jazz Fest and this made the whole drive worth it. Big, smoky chunks of tender meat (duck and Andouille) and the slightly nutty roux (almost chocolatey) make this my favorite gumbo ever. You can get it frozen, to go.
KICKING SHRIMP

Carencro (a town nearby) Kicking Shrimp also landed in front of me. Fried shrimp with a Panko crust coated in “our Carencro kicker sauce” over Sriracha slaw was not visually thrilling but it was a taste extravaganza. The slaw was very creamy, not usually my style, but it offered a nice balance to the spice. The shrimp were the star of the dish though, and they were fried to perfection, with a hint of buttery texture.
Heading away from Prejeanʼs I noticed the Evangeline Training Center, just up the road. It was time for some racing.
Perhaps thereʼs a more direct way to get to the racetrack but I had a lengthy walk past and around the casino. Evangeline proudly declares itself “the first racino built in this country from the ground up.” I think they did a good job with the set-up.
EVANGELINE'S NEON SIGN

The paddock is nice, wide and accessible, with plenty of rail space for patrons to see the horses up close. Horses and jockeys pass the winnerʼs circle on the way to the track and the finish line is close too. The central design made much more sense when a few hundred people streamed out of the building for the first post. The crowd continued to grow, including families and lots of children! Two storms did not dampen the atmosphere for long and we got treated to a rainbow. There is a small covered area near the paddock with picnic tables and a handful of TVs. Inside are more tables and a nearly overwhelming array of televisions.
I saw no food options that made me sad I wasnʼt hungry. People were lined up for the buffet and eating at ʻ24/7ʼ but neither interested me. Backstreet Barbeque might have tempted me later but after seeing frozen, factory-made patties going on the grill, I knew I could resist. They did a brisk business that night though.
FANS CROWD THE EVANGELINE RAIL

Two things really impressed me about Evangeline. One, there were a lot more people than I expected, a good sign for racing. Especially with the stretch run enhanced by children cheering on their favorite. Two, the sound system was clear and audible. Usually, the track handicapper delivers some good analysis that almost no one at the track can understand. Here, Michael Chamberlain was clear as a bell. Unfortunately, it was a tough day to pick the horses. I wonʼt bother recounting our collective errors. Heʼs usually much more reliable and I freely admit my inability to consistently pick the right horses.
If youʼre in the neighborhood (or close enough to drive) be sure to visit the area. Add some swamp time, more grocery store boudin and wrap it up with some racing at Evangeline Downs.
It was time for my long drive back to New Orleans. At least I still had some cracklins ...