Mardi Gras Tips for Fair Grounds and Beyond

Photo by Eclipse Sportswire. Other photos courtesy of Geoff Worden
Fair Grounds may not be hosting more Derby prep races until after Mardi Gras season, but they are offering five full days of racing starting Friday, Feb. 5 at 1:25 p.m. CT. The weather appears to be cool and mostly sunny through Mardi Gras Day and the track can be a wonderful respite from parades and thick crowds.
There is one stakes race on Friday and Fat Tuesday brings us, appropriately, Saint No More in Race 1 (12:30 p.m. CT post time) at Fair Grounds. Even without lots of big races, don’t hesitate to bring your carnival spirit to the third-oldest racetrack in North America in a city approaching its tricentennial. You’ll see people in costumes, you can get some good food, and you can cheer on your favorites.
Enjoy the rest of what the season has to offer as well. Parades run every night, and some days. You don’t need help to locate bars and restaurants along the route itself. Places like the Columns Hotel are great and easy to find. They’re important to know about and convenient while the parade is passing, but what about after? Or in between?
COLUMNS HOTEL

Besides the obvious reasons to not drink and drive, it can be hard to get around in a car near the parade routes. Traffic, closed roads and full parking lots are just a few of the challenges you might encounter. Cabs are sometimes available but they become scarce during Mardi Gras and, while New Orleans has added Uber, who knows what that surge pricing might cost. Walking often makes the most sense but you will need to locate restrooms, at a minimum, especially for longer journeys.
One of the constants of the season is a need for a bathroom. There is even a song, “Ain’t No Place to Pee on Mardi Gras Day,” by Benny Grunch and the Bunch. Airpnp, modeled after Airbnb, offers some private homes where you can, for a fee, use the restroom. There are more spots than there used to be but you may not want rely on that. Plus, they can’t legally sell you another adult beverage. Whatever you choose, do not relieve yourself outside, you can be arrested and OPP (Orleans Parish Prison) is no place to spend Mardi Gras.
A HOME DECKED OUT FOR MARDI GRAS

Here are a handful of places near the route and in the French Quarter that might offer some respite from the insanity. They will not be quiet or empty but you didn’t come to Mardi Gras for that anyway.
Warehouse Grill saved me last year during a chilly walk downtown and turned me on to a new drink as well. Dropping a shot of spiced rum (bourbon works too) into a draft cider was delicious and fortifying! They open early on the weekend, also Mardi Gras Day as I recall, and offer 40 drafts. That should be enough but there is also a full menu and brunch on weekends.
Capdeville is the only registered address on a street a mere one block long. Expect craft cocktails and an upscale twist on pub food with a Louisiana accent. You can make reservations too!
Vic’s Kangaroo Café is a gathering spot before, after, and sometimes during all sorts of events downtown. This is not a fancy place but it has some decent taps, the drinks are on the strong side and the prices are reasonable.
If you’re downtown and looking for a calmer scene, try W.I.N.O. or Loa, at the International House. W.I.N.O. is a wine shop/wine bar and you can select various pours to explore many different grapes/regions/vintages or fill up your glass and sit down to sip. There is something for everyone. You’ll want to be dressed nicely to enjoy the scene at Loa (named after divine Voodoo spirits) and the excellent cocktails from “Spirit Handler” Alan Walter. He was way ahead of the craft cocktail trend and has a great feel for making delicious drinks. Plus, the place feels like a different world from the mayhem of parades.
A MARDI GRAS BALCONY

Speaking of mayhem, if you’re in the French Quarter and need a break, try the following: Kerry Irish Pub may be a little hard to maneuver along the bar, but they have good live music, sometimes great, and a decent selection of beer.
Ryan’s Irish Pub has a lengthy tap list but remember that pretty much everything comes in a plastic cup this time of year. Bad news: it never tastes quite as good. Good news: you can walk out the door anytime and take your drink with you.
Molly’s at the Market is hardly an undiscovered gem but it is a great stop on the backside of the Quarter with a top-notch jukebox and good cocktails, including my favorite for this time of year, frozen Irish coffee. It’s like an adult milkshake and soothes the vocal chords you strained yelling for trinkets.
Another great place to get a frozen Irish coffee is Erin Rose. Located steps off Bourbon Street, it is more of a locals bar … although that is harder to maintain during carnival. They open early and run specials from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. with the Irish coffee and a solid bloody mary included.
If you want to step up your cocktail game in the quarter but don’t want to spend too much or get too dressy, try out one of these gems. Bar Tonique features a long list of specialty cocktails and uses fresh and housemade ingredients. The drinks are excellent and exact but without the pretension or preciousness others sometimes flaunt. Meauxbar, only a block away, follows a similar mantra but in more of a restaurant setting. Expect crowds and lines during Mardi Gras and find a way to enjoy them. Mardi Gras can be unpredictable, that’s part of the magic. However, if you are setting out for a destination, confirm they’re open. Also, specials sometimes disappear during the season since there are so many people in town. Don’t worry though, since there are no tickets to Mardi Gras, think how much free entertainment you get just for being in that number! Enjoy the journey, even if it seems too long, there are plenty of sights to see. Have a wonderful, safe carnival … I’ll see you out there.