In The Know At Churchill Downs

Geoff Worden's first experience at Wagner's was a highlight of his day.
Driving nearly three hours round trip to the fabled Churchill Downs to see a horse work out for 49 seconds is a little silly. When you’re with the some of the owners, it makes one feel a little special, a little in the know. Plus, Miss Wright does it all the time and I wasn’t about to pass up the opportunity. We left after the morning workout and bath time for her horse. It was opening day for Churchill but 6p.m. was too long to wait. I was thrilled we were planning a full day at the races on Sunday.

We made a plan to eat at Wagnerʼs Pharmacy on the backside of the track where horse people have been meeting and eating since 1922. They are no strangers to media attention but clearly have not taken on any airs due to the attention over the years.
 We questioned ourselves as we pulled into their empty parking lot. Neither of us had been before and we forgot to check their hours until we arrived at noon. Open, phew, but breakfast was over at 11, bummer. Click here for their website and hours.
Sundays are only an option when a race meet is under way. 
The place was empty. Actually, there were three or four employees cleaning up in preparation to close and a huge pile of bacon on the counter. Miss Wright asked nicely if we were too late to eat and they invited us to sit anywhere. Then she asked if we could still order breakfast and the answer was also friendly and accommodating. 
Miss Wright had a full plan and I, as usual, endorsed it fully. She chose bacon and eggs, scrambled, and we split an order of biscuits and gravy. I picked sausage and eggs, over easy, and we both opted for potatoes rather than tomatoes.

A WAGNER'S BREAKFAST

Miss Wright, always thinking ahead (and often of dessert) inquired about pie. “Do you have any pie here? This looks like a place to get a great slice of pie.”
Unfortunately, despite a slice being pictured above the counter, we heard the only ʻnoʼ of our visit.
 We had a chance to soak in the atmosphere while our food was prepared. Horse pictures and memorabilia covered nearly every available space. Next time I will wander more but since they were so nice and took such good care of us I didnʼt want to prolong their exit too much. They locked the door shortly after we arrived. 
My eyes had to be content surveying what was nearby. Above our table were, among lots of others, pictures of Citation, Triple Crown winner of 1948, and a photo of Burgoo King (Kentucky Derby and Preakness winner 1932). The latter horse may never have been a household name but his dish at Wagner’s remains a Kentucky staple.

These photos told me all about the history of Wagnerʼs and also of the famous track right outside their door. The decor showed little or nothing had changed in decades. Happily, the menu prices also reflect that trip back in time. (Some of the prices posted online do not match the current menu - it wonʼt matter much but you might as well know). 
We tore into the mostly pillowy biscuits and the thick, creamy gravy with chunks of sausage with great gusto. One biscuit was a bit hard and overcooked but the others were fantastic and they even held up in the gravy, never surrendering to sogginess. Any minor issues were already forgiven because we were being served with a smile!

Miss Wrightʼs bacon was crisp but not overcooked in the slightest. She was thrilled that she could hold a piece horizontally and it stayed straight, no sag, no droop. She even complimented the staff on the bacon and they said they took pride in it. They added that customers could tell if it ever changed. They use Mariah from Columbus, Indiana. Of course, Miss Wright knew it, “You can smell it from the car,” she told me.
Fortunately she left a few small pieces of fat that I gladly sampled. It was great bacon, smoky and full of flavor.
 My sausage was juicy on the inside and delightfully crisp on the outside. This is my favorite preparation for breakfast sausage and almost no one gets it right. The eggs were perfect also, just runny enough for mopping up with potatoes but thickened enough by heat. The potatoes were almost fabulous. The thick discs were obviously freshly cut and they had plenty of real potato flavor but I prefer them with more crunch. Seasoning was a bit lacking on the potatoes and my eggs but it is easy to add salt and pepper, plus there is Frankʼs Red Hot and Tabasco on the table if you want some kick. Overall though, the meal was superb and very reasonably priced.

Wagner’s isn’t much to look at but the best diners rarely are. There really is a pharmacy attached and a “general store” where you can get, among other things, racing forms and programs. An earlier arrival and more exploration are part of the plan for next time. So is a milkshake.
We headed to the track and met up with Miss Wright’s brother, his wife and another couple. Her owner’s badge got us close parking, free entry and even a program. We talked horses, bet a little and generally enjoyed a picture perfect day at Churchill. After the eighth race we all headed toward the final turn, under the deserted stands at that end and through the tunnel to the back of the track. Wagner’s greeted us through the fence. No one asked, but we had Miss Wrightʼs ownerʼs credentials in case they did.
WAGNER'S WAS EASY TO SEE FROM THE BACKSIDE

Then we visited with both horses she and her family own that are stabled at Churchill. One was much friendlier than usual and we were happy to get a few pictures. Race nine ran while we were there but the expected thundering herd was quieted by the turf.
Having essentially free rein at perhaps the most famous racetrack in the world and eating in a place steeped in history made for a truly special day. I can’t offer the same, back of the track experience to everyone but Wagner’s is right there waiting for you.