Bristol Bar and Grille is a Louisville staple and a perfect way to finish a night at the races at Churchill Downs. (Photos by Geoff Worden)
With six racing days left in September there is still time to enjoy this stop after the last post. Yes, even on the 19th with Downs After Dark because Bristol is open late!
Although the restaurant has six locations around the city, we wanted to visit the original. The bonus of this choice was a delightful drive on Eastern Parkway through some very attractive neighborhoods. Large trees and appealing architecture reminded me why I strongly considered moving to Louisville after Katrina tore through New Orleans.
We opted for a spot on the peaceful patio, complete with ivy-covered brick walls and pebbles embedded in the concrete. The heavily-trafficked Bardstown Rd. melted away as we settled into our chairs. Miss Wright announced, “The patio is swell” and we began to peruse the multiple menus on our table.
Bristol Bar & Grille is part of the Urban Bourbon Trail and, as our server said, they “offer a bevy of Bourbons.” Three pages worth. Although the spirit is not my favorite we decided we had to have the Four Roses Remedy, featuring, of course, Four Roses Bourbon, Benedictine and bitters. It was a little sweet with a slow, subtle warming on the finish.
FOUR ROSES REMEDY
Four Roses is an aromatic Bourbon with plenty of spice and the cocktail had some notes of sweet brown sugar and what I could only describe as an occasional hint of wintergreen.
Miss Wright looked at me incredulously, “I thought you didnʼt like Bourbon?” “I would if they all tasted like this,” I replied as I slurped the last of the drink.
Miss Wright spotted the Green Chili Wontons on the menu months ago and they sounded good to me but we also wanted some artichoke fritters. Our server helpfully suggested a half and half basket (which isnʼt on the menu as an option) and we knew we were in good hands. The fritters could have been crisper but the flavor was great.
GREEN CHILI WONTONS AND ARTICHOKE FRITTERS
They came with a remoulade sauce that might have confused some purists in New Orleans but it was cool, rich and had a little celery crunch. The Wontons oozed melted cheese and the chili flavor was distinct but not overwhelming. They were served with a guacamole that was amazingly creamy and nicely salty. Though both dishes worked well with their respective dips, I thought they were better reversed.
The wine list is curated by a Master Sommelier and it offers a refreshing change. Not only are the selections varied and interesting but the prices are fantastic! The approach seems to be to charge the diner about what a nominal corkage fee would be if you bought the bottle in a retail shop. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I would like to see them incorporate the Reserve List into the regular list. Some people wonʼt ask for it (it was presented at our table without asking), some wonʼt read it and none of the bottles are prohibitively expensive. We chose the Chateau de Campuget Blanc, a blend of roussanne, grenache blanc and marsanne from southern France. It offered classic lemon acidity but with enough weight to feel lush and a long finish full of slightly tingly, minerally complexity. At $24 for the bottle it seemed out of place on a Reserve List (and the only white) but we were glad we found it.
CHATEAU DE CAMPUGET BLANC
Our entrees came with house salads and while all the ingredients were fresh and appeared made to order (a rarity for house salads in many places) the dressing is the reason for mentioning them. Harryʼs dressing is essentially Ranch but they add cottage cheese and who knows what else to make it unique and delicious. Donʼt miss it!
Miss Wright kept the chili thing going with Theresaʼs Sweet Chili Linguine, “pasta tossed with cream and Thai chili sauce topped with grilled blackened chicken.” My choice was something perhaps a bit heartier than needed but it used Bourbon as an ingredient and sounded perfect. Bourbon Braised Pork Shoulder with Yukon Gold mashed potatoes, collard greens and roasted vegetables.
BOURBON BRAISED PORK SHOULDER
The Thai linguine was almost sweet to my taste with a hint of spice, some crispy chicken and pickled cabbage on the side. It was alfredo with an attitude. Mine was exactly what you would expect. A classic fall dish full of richness and deep flavors. The addition of some crispy julienned sweet potatoes on top was genius. We both had some food left over and even took the rest of the bread - crusty and fantastic.
As I mentioned earlier, our server was amazing. She even labeled our to-go boxes! She should be the ultimate example for wait staff. Knowledgable, helpful, genuinely enthusiastic, willing to steer us in another direction if we maybe chose something less than outstanding and she had a good sense of humor. Great meals can be ruined by bad service, mediocre meals can be saved by good service and this enjoyable experience was elevated by her presence.
The only unhappy thing she did all night was to tell us the French Custard Bread Pudding was not available that night. We opted for the Dark Chocolate Mousse with raspberry sauce and were pleased with the choice. Itʼs a timeless classic and easy to share.
DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
I canʼt vouch for the other outlets but the original Highlands location gets my strong endorsement and a desire for a return trip.