Know Before You Go: Arlington International Racecourse

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At 10:30 a.m. on a Thursday, the rear car of a Metra train is nearly full as it rattles northwest out of Chicago and through the city’s Rockwellian suburbs. In most cities, coffee would be the beverage of choice for passengers at this hour, but this is America’s foremost drinking town, a place where a Cubs ticket trumps actual supervisory permission to blow off work on a weekday and get blitzed in the bleachers.

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