Misadventures in France, La Fin

Pomp and circumstance at Longchamp on Arc day. (All photos by Amanda Duckworth)
The night before the Qatar Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe, the winds changed. Literally. A group of friends in town for the race and I were leaving a pub, and an autumn wind started to blow. Sometime between sunset and true nighttime, Paris remembered it was October after all. After abnormally warm and sunny weather all week, race day was a bit overcast, a bit chilly. However, it felt ... right. Plus, as long as the rains stay away, it counts as a win. Organizers go all out to encourage race attendance at the Arc. This is not a race just for the rich or well-connected. Free shuttles run from Paris to Longchamp and a walk up ticket at the gate costs only 10 Euro.
THIS WAY TO THE SHUTTLES

There is something delightful about shuttles to sporting events. It is a great equalizer. A man in jeans stands next to a woman dressed to the nines. Everyone ends up a little closer to their neighbor than they would prefer, but smiles are not hard to find. A day’s racing awaits, and what a day it turned out to be this year. The best part of the shuttle ride, though, is the accidental but unavoidable eavesdropping.  Can't lose betting tips abound. No matter if three different horses are pegged as the guaranteed winner in the same race. The man on the left is just as confident as the man on the right, who is equally as confident as the man in the seat next to you. Hours later you pay more attention to that particular race than you might have otherwise. Turns out they were all wrong. So it goes, more often than not.
OVERCAST BUT LOVELY ALL THE SAME

Walking into Longchamp, there is a melting pot of cultures. Longchamp is Parisian, but the Arc is sponsored by the country of Qatar. Interactive booths explaining a world foreign to many are set up. One of the most popular is the one featuring a live falcon, which is an important animal in Qatar. People line up to hold this breathtaking creature, and it is impossible to resist.
FALCON FRIEND

Race days are odd days, full of hurrying up to wait. Horses parade by, hats battle the autumn wind, and at the Arc, the sound of popping champagne bottles make up part of the background noise all day long. In the words of a friend, "You can't go to the Arc and NOT have champagne."
THIS BAR ONLY SERVES ONE THING ...

BUBBLY ABOUNDS

Most bars offer bubbly, and there are some that only offer it. How can you not smile at a champagne bar? One of the things I love about the Arc is that it comes in the middle of the race card. Excitement builds. Toes tap. Then, faster than seems possible, it is time to put your money where your mouth is with a wager or two. You just know a filly is going to win the Arc, but in my case the wagering dollars were placed on the wrong one.
PARADE RING

GREAT RACING ALL DAY LONG

It matters not. Watching Treve break away from the field to claim her second Arc is a thrill and a popular victory even if you have no tickets to cash. The crowd claps and cheers as all of the horses come back. Treve gets the loudest applause, of course, but appreciation for all the runners abounds. The pomp and circumstance surrounding the Arc is fantastic. Treve parades on both sides of the track so all have a chance to cheer for her. Horse drawn carriages arrive to collect the winning connections for the post race presentation. Smiles are not in short supply.
TREVE RETURNS VICTORIOUS

POMP AND CIRCUMSTANCE

But then, the day keeps going. Instead of running for the door, the crowd continues to enjoy a world class event.  More racing, more champagne, more cheers. Even after the final race, spectators linger. There are chats to have, drinks to sip, wagers to brag about. Unexpectedly, Bobby Flay and his wife walk by. It is that kind of event. Horse racing at its best is a delight to take part in. The fact that, in theory, your entire day at Longchamp can be done for 10 Euros is astounding. Paris might not be cheap, but attending the Arc can be.
YOUNG FASHIONISTA

SIGNS, SIGNS

A general admission ticket includes access to the track apron. A regular person can have a finish line view of one of the best races in the world, and unlike some major sporting events, this one is very fan friendly. I do cover the event, so I had a press pass, but I have friends who come to the race annually just because they love it so much.
If you dream of going to Paris, try to be there the first weekend in October. Even if your only connection to horse racing is your love for it, you can become part of a historic race and genuinely enjoy yourself without breaking the bank to do it.